Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing.[1][2][3]
The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom.
{{grade|grading}}
system for {{aid climbing}}
(both for "original" and an adapted version for "new wave"), which goes: A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 and up to A6 (for "new wave"). See {{C-grade}}
.[4]}}
{{anchor}}
used in {{abseiling}}
especially in winter and in {{ice climbing}}
.{{progress capture device}}
or a {{self-locking device}}
such as a Petzl GriGri that immediately locks if the rope travels through it quickly in a specific direction. See {{auto belay}}
.}}
{{fixed rope}}
that is firmly attached to a fixed {{anchor}}
point, which is also known as an "abseil station". See {{tat}}
and {{cord}}
.}}
{{rack}}
.{{cord}}
.{{protection}}
that dynamically changes to absorb the shape and strength of a fall; active protection is the opposite of {{passive protection}}
. See {{cam}}
s and {{friend}}
s.}}
{{ice axe}}
; is used for chopping footholds.{{protection}}
); opposite of {{free climbing}}
. See {{clean aid climbing}}
.{{etrier}}
.{{mountaineering}}
that includes {{ice climbing}}
, {{dry-tooling}}
and {{rock climbing}}
.{{alpine climbing}}
system for {{grade|grading}}
the technical difficulty of alpine climbing routes, which goes: F ("facile/easy"), PD ("peu difficile/little difficult"), AD ("assez difficile/fairly hard"), D ("difficile/difficult"), TD ("très difficile/very hard"), and ED ("extrêmement difficile/extremely difficult"); ED then goes ED1, ED2, ED3, .. etc.[4][6] }}
{{alpine climbing}}
to avoid afternoon rockfalls and melting snow on the route, or to get firmer ice on the glacier travel to and from the route.[2]{{expedition style}}
.{{anchor}}
that is created by connecting a closed loop of webbing between two points of protection.{{protection}}
set up to support the weight of a {{belay}}
, a {{top rope}}
, or an {{abseil}}
.[1][3] See also {{deadman anchor}}
.{{indoor climbing}}
in which one is able to use such a corner as a hold. See also {{dihedral}}
.{{deep-water soloing}}
for entering shallower water where the climber needs to avoid deeper hazards in the water; executed properly a 30 pies (9,1 m) fall can be absorbed in just 5 pies (1,5 m) of water.[8]{{fixed rope}}
, very common in {{aid climbing}}
and {{big wall climbing}}
. See {{jumar}}
.{{belay device}}
from Black Diamond (the "Air Traffic Controller") that became a generic term for any {{tuber}}
belay device. {{abseiling}}
technique performed face first; used for military purposes.[9]{{belay device}}
on indoor {{climbing wall}}
s, which hangs from the top of routes that solo climbers clip into.{{grade|grading system}}
for {{bouldering}}
invented by John Gill, now superseded by the {{V-grade|V-grading system}}
.{{campus|campusing}}
and core body and arm strength; invented by John Bachar.{{quickdraw}}
such that the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw as opposed to over the top of it. If the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the gate, causing it to open and release the rope from the {{carabiner}}
.[1][10]{{protection}}
device consisting of a nut and a movable ball used for very small thin cracks.[13]{{flagging}}
.[2]{{copperhead}}
.{{lead climber}}
gains a brief upside-down rest by hanging from their wedged feet. See {{chest jam}}
and {{knee bar}}
.{{protection|protect}}
a roped {{lead climbing|lead climber}}
from falling by controlling the rope; usually involves a {{belay device}}
.[1][2]{{belay|belaying}}
the {{lead climber}}
, also known as a {{second}}
.{{belayer|belayers}}
to increase braking force when belaying; can be passive like a {{figure eight|figure eights}}
or {{tuber|tubers}}
, or a more active {{abd|assisted braking device}}
like the Petzl GriGri.[1][2]{{belayer}}
to help them avoid having to look upward, which can cause neck strain.[14]{{belayer}}
to protect their skin in the event of sudden rope movement and to aid grip.[14]{{harness}}
, and the loop to which a {{belay device}}
is physically attached.[1][2]{{climbing command}}
from a {{belayer}}
to confirm that the friction of {{belay|belaying}}
has been removed from a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "{{off belay}}
" request.[15]{{climbing command}}
from a {{belayer}}
to confirm that the friction of {{belay|belaying}}
has been (re)applied to a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "{{on belay}}
" request.[15]{{belayer}}
is belaying, sometimes anchored to the ground, or directly to the rock (particularly in a {{hanging belay}}
on {{big wall climbing}}
routes), or other objects.[16]{{crevasse}}
that forms on the upper portion of a glacier where the moving section pulls away from the {{headwall}}
.
{{on-sight}}
and {{flash}}
.[1][2][3]{{sport climbing}}
, a move on a climbing route other than the move originally intended by the route setter. In bouldering, a move other than the move usually used on the boulder.{{flash}}
.{{overhang|overhangs}}
where the feet "pinch-hold" a foothold by one foot pushing down on it while the other foot pulls up on it (i.e. like the pedals on a bicycle).[17]{{protection}}
in {{off-width}}
{{crack climbing}}
.[18]}}
{{pitch}}
es (over 300–500 metres), that typically takes over a day (if not many days), and requires the hauling of food, water, sleeping bags, and the use of {{portaledge}}
s.[1]{{portaledge}}
can be used.}}
{{bivouac}}
.{{belayer}}
uses their body, and not a mechanical {{belay device}}
, to increase braking force when belaying; usually involves wrapping the rope around their waist or hip.[19]}}
{{sport climbing}}
technique to get back onto the wall after falling by pulling on the rope to un-weight it, allowing the belayer to {{take|take in}}
the {{slack}}
quickly; avoids the fallen climber having to return to the ground.[20]{{anchor}}
to construct a {{belay}}
.{{protection}}
permanently installed in a hole drilled into the rock, to which a metal {{bolt hanger}}
is attached, with a hole to attach a {{carabiner}}
or a {{quickdraw}}
; used in {{sport climbing}}
and in {{competition climbing}}
.[1][2]{{bolt|bolts}}
from a climb; happens on {{traditional climbing}}
routes (e.g. the Indian Face); also featured in the "bolt wars" of the 1980s and 1990s in the US.[3]{{bolt|bolts}}
that are so close together, they can be used by {{aid climbing|aid climbers}}
as a ladder.[2]{{bolt}}
(i.e. before the bolt is screwed in) into which {{quickdraw}}
s can be clipped.}}
{{bolt}}
that has no {{bolt hanger}}
; will require a {{rivet hanger}}
to be used by a climber.{{anchor}}
, or a particularly solid handhold or foothold.[1][2][21]
}}
{{harness|climbing harness}}
.{{crash pad|crash pads}}
and {{spotting}}
for protection.[1][2]{{bouldering}}
; also called a crash pad.[2]{{aid climbing}}
where a new placement is tested by using the {{lead climber}}
's bodyweight.[22]{{stemming}}
.[1][2]{{grade|grading}}
system for {{aid climbing}}
that is "clean" (i.e. no {{rock hammer|hammered}}
{{piton}}
s or {{bolt}}
s), which goes: C0, C1, C2, C3, C4, and C5; also has an {{a-grade|A-grade}}
equivalent of the "original" aid grades for "new wave".[4]}}
{{spring-loaded camming device}}
(SLCD), also known as "friends", used as {{protection}}
in {{traditional climbing}}
.[1]{{spring-loaded camming device}}
(SLCD), manufactured by Black Diamond Equipment.{{campus board}}
.[1][2] See {{paddling}}
.{{bolt}}
but with no fixed {{bolt hanger}}
; climbers attach to the carrot bolt by using a version of a {{rivet hanger}}
or by attaching a removable bolt hanger plate.[24]{{chalk}}
that is carried on a chalk belt or clipped to a {{harness}}
.{{harness}}
that also covers the upper body to help prevent a rotation in any fall; particularly used when the climber is carrying a heavy pack, or is climbing in an area with crevasses.{{big wall climbing}}
and {{aid climbing}}
to refer to a {{bolt}}
placed to reduce the risk of a difficult section.[25]{{crack}}
climbing technique where a hand is placed on one side of the crack and the shoulder on the other.[26]{{stemming}}
.[1][2]{{protection}}
in {{traditional climbing}}
.[1][2][27]}}
{{traditional climbing}}
route with very poor {{protection}}
where any fall could be fatal. See {{x|X}}
.[2]{{dry-tooling}}
.[2]{{grade}}
.{{protection}}
equipment from a climbing route.{{chipping}}
[2]{{redpoint}}
.{{aid climbing}}
where only removable {{traditional climbing}}
{{protection}}
is allowed, and no {{rock hammer|hammered-in}}
{{bolt}}
s or {{piton}}
s. See {{C-grade}}
.{{free climbing}}
movement, which advocated minimizing any form of climbing that permanently impacted the natural rock surface, such as the use of {{bolt}}
s or {{piton}}
s in {{sport climbing}}
.{{nut|nuts}}
, from a {{route}}
.{{climbing route}}
s. See {{crag}}
{{lead climber}}
and a {{belayer}}
. See {{take}}
.[15]{{indoor climbing}}
center; usually just called a "climbing centre" in the UK.{{competition climbing}}
.{{protection}}
(usually via a {{carabiner}}
), to {{belay}}
devices, or to other {{anchor|anchors}}
. See {{tie in}}
.}}
{{stick clip}}
.{{climbing wall}}
s for mostly professional or Olympic climbers, split into the disciplines of {{lead climbing}}
(on a bolted {{sport climbing}}
route), {{bouldering}}
and {{speed climbing}}
. A fourth discipline of "combined" add the three together. See {{ifsc|IFSC}}
.[30]{{climbing wall}}
s for mostly professional ice climbers, split into the disciplines of ice {{lead climbing}}
(on a bolted {{sport climbing}}
dry-wall route), and ice {{speed climbing}}
on an iced route. See also {{uiaa|UIAA}}
.{{rock hammer|hammer}}
; commonly used in {{aid climbing}}
as a point of placement, remaining fixed in-situ after placement.{{abseiling|abseil stations}}
. See {{tat}}
.[29]}}
{{anchor}}
points.{{arête}}
(UK). See {{dihedral}}
.[2]{{jamming}}
, {{chimney}}
, and {{off-width}}
.{{climbing route}}
s (e.g. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu).[2]{{front pointing}}
.{{bouldering mat}}
.{{ground fall}}
.[2]{{mixed climbing}}
routes are completed in fully dry conditions (i.e. no ice or snow), the "M" suffix of the {{M-grade}}
is swapped for a "D".}}
{{bouldering}}
for touching the ground, {{crash pad}}
, spotter, or hold from other {{route}}
.[32]{{sling}}
with multiple sewn or tied loops, used in {{aid climbing|aid}}
and {{big wall climbing}}
.{{anchor}}
for an attached {{fixed rope}}
.[33]}}
{{dynamic motion}}
in which the hold is grabbed with one hand at the apex of upward motion of the body, while one or both feet and the other hand maintain contact with the rock.[34] See {{dyno|dynos}}
.{{ground fall}}
.[2]{{Free solo climbing}}
on an overhanging route over a body of water to absorb any fall.[2]}}
{{fixed rope}}
; {{belay device|belay devices}}
can be descenders.[2]}}
{{corner}}
formed at the intersection of two flat rock faces; the opposite of an {{arête}}
.[1][2]In {{lead climbing}}
where two thinner ropes are used instead of a single rope to manage {{drag|rope drag}}
. Compare {{twin ropes}}
.[29]}}
{{abseiling}}
or {{lower-off|lowering off}}
), after completing a climb, or {{bail}}
ing.{{protection}}
. See {{slack}}
and {{double ropes}}
.[38][39][40]}}
{{anchor}}
used in soft rock instead of {{bolt|bolts}}
that uses a "baby angle" ({{piton}}
) {{rock hammer|hammered}}
into a drilled hole, which some think is better in soft rock than bolts that can crack the rock.[41][42]{{deadpoint}}
where one arm crosses over the other to reach a hold that is above and to the side.{{ice climbing}}
tools such as {{crampons}}
and {{ice axe|ice axes}}
, on bare rock. See {{Mixed climbing}}
.{{dry-tooling}}
with additional restrictions and particularly a prohibition on {{yaniro}}
moves.}}
{{abseiling}}
technique where the {{fixed rope}}
is wrapped around the body.{{climbing rope}}
that softens falls to some extent and absorbs the energy of heavy loads. Compare {{static rope}}
.[29]{{fall}}
. See also {{paddling}}
and {{campusing}}
.[1][2][43]{{traditional climbing}}
routes, and which goes E1, E2, E3, ... to E11 (an additional metric is used for technical difficulty).[4]{{climbing shoe}}
on a narrow foothold; in the absence of footholds, {{smearing}}
is used.{{Drop knee}}
.[1][11]{{bridging}}
or {{chimneying}}
, but with one leg in front and one behind the body.{{bouldering}}
move, or series of moves, where certain holds are placed "off bounds".[2]{{sewing-machine leg}}
.[2]{{protection}}
equipment used in {{via ferrata}}
climbing to absorb the energy of the arrest of any fall. See {{lanyard}}
.{{anchor|anchors}}
. See {{serene|SERENE}}
.{{webbing}}
that is used for {{aid climbing}}
.[2][44]{{abseil|abseils}}
; considered dubious in America.{{fixed rope}}
, base camps, etc.) in helping the lead climbers reach the eventual summit; opposite of {{alpine style}}
.{{edge|edges}}
, and {{smearing|smears}}
, as opposed to {{crack climbing}}
.[1]{{mixed climbing}}
.[2]{{figure-four}}
move where the "same-side" leg is used instead of the "opposite" leg.[2]}}
{{belay device}}
or {{descender}}
that is shaped like the number eight.[2][12]{{tie in}}
a climber's {{harness}}
to the climbing rope.{{jamming|jam}}
using the fingers in a crack.[1]}}
{{hangboard}}
.[2]{{route}}
by any means, including {{aid climbing}}
(i.e. not via {{free climbing}}
).}}
{{first ascent}}
of a new {{route}}
without {{aid climbing|aid}}
, following the {{free climbing}}
criteria of a {{redpoint}}
.}}
{{jamming|jam}}
using the hand.{{abseil|abseiling}}
(going down) or for {{jumar|jumaring}}
(going up).{{barn-door}}
.[2] There are three types of flagging:[12][11]
{{beta}}
; with no beta, it is an {{on-sight}}
.[1][2][45][3]{{grade}}
system for {{bouldering}}
, which goes: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6A, 6B, 6C, 7A, 7B, 7C, .... , to 9A; with the American {{v-grade|V-grade}}
system, is the most common worldwide boulder-grading system. Font grades are often confused with {{French grade}}
s.[6]}}
{{jamming}}
the foot into a large crack by twisting so that the heel and toes touch the sides.}}
{{Free solo climbing}}
but with a BASE jumping parachute as a backup in the event of a fall.{{aid climbing|aids}}
other than for {{protection}}
; can be done as {{sport climbing}}
or {{traditional climbing}}
.[2]Climbing without any type of {{aid climbing|aid}}
or any form of climbing {{protection}}
.}}
{{aid climbing}}
techniques (i.e. {{A-grade|A0-graded}}
aid techniques such as pulling on climbing protection) to bypass a short section that is not easily climbable, particularly used in {{big wall climbing}}
.[46]{{grade}}
system for {{sport climbing}}
, which goes: 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, .... , to 9c; with the American {{yosemite decimal system|YDS}}
system, is the most common sport climbing grading system. French grades are often confused with {{font}}
grades.[6]}}
{{competition climbing}}
, including {{IFSC}}
events, starting a climb in this manner invalidates the attempt.[47]{{climbing shoe|shoe}}
.{{spring-loaded camming device}}
(SLCD) {{protection}}
, and a generic name for SLCDs.[2]{{ice climbing}}
technique that uses the frontmost-spikes of the {{crampons}}
to ascend iced routes.{{mixed climbing}}
and {{ice climbing}}
that have in-built {{crampons}}
.{{side pull}}
. The grip maintains friction against a hold by pressing outward toward the elbow. Named for Gaston Rébuffat.[1][2][11]{{carabiner}}
opening during a fall.{{Dulfersitz}}
{{rappel}}
using the hip and downhill arm for friction — less complex, but less friction and control.{{belay device|belay plate device}}
for belaying a second from above that has auto-blocking; made by Kong. See also {{sticht plate|Sticht plate}}
.{{ice axe}}
for control.{{lead climbing}}
} grading systems are the {{French grade|French sport climbing grades}}
, and the American {{yosemite decimal system|Yosemite Decimal System}}
; for {{bouldering}}
, it is the {{font}}
grade and the {{v-grade|V-grade}}
systems.[2][6]{{first free ascent}}
(FFA) by a {{lead climber}}
of a new {{climbing route}}
that sets a new grade level (e.g. the first-ever 9b grade milestone was Chris Sharma's FFA of Jumbo Love in 2008).{{sport climbing}}
route but only using {{traditional climbing}}
protection (e.g. Principle Hope). See {{redpoint}}
.[48]}}
{{belay device}}
invented and manufactured by Petzl; also used in rope solo climbing.[2]{{lead climbing|leading}}
into a harder route; from the notorious climb Gronk in Avon Gorge.{{lead climber}}
falls and hits the ground, either because their {{protection}}
failed (e.g. {{zipper fall}}
), the {{runout}}
was too great, or the {{belayer}}
failed to arrest or hold the rope.[2]}}
{{double ropes}}
.[29]{{jamming|jam}}
using the hand in a crack.[1]{{traverse|Traversing}}
without any definitive footholds, i.e. no {{edging}}
, {{smearing}}
or {{heelhooking}}
.{{campus board}}
.[49]{{protection}}
, after falling, and then start reclimbing without returning to the ground.[50]}}
{{belay station}}
of the {{belayer}}
is suspended from the ground and tied to the wall via a fixed {{anchor}}
point; used in {{big wall|big wall climbing}}
and {{multi-pitch climbing}}
.{{crampons|crampon}}
attachment to the back of the heel used in {{mixed climbing}}
to perform a {{heel hook}}
.[51]{{big wall}}
routes.{{Top-roping}}
a {{traditional climbing}}
route before {{clean|lead climbing}}
it to practice the moves. See {{redpoint}}
.[48]}}
{{hold}}
for balance or for leverage.[1][2][12]{{toe hook}}
and {{heel hook}}
to hold the body onto the climbing route.}}
{{runner}}
made of 5- to 8-mm {{cord}}
tied in to a loop. Commonly used for self-belay during {{rappel}}
, escaping a {{belay}}
, and in {{crevasse}}
rescue.[52]{{protection|protective device}}
consisting of an eccentric hexagonal {{nut}}
attached to a wire loop.{{boulder problem}}
over circa 5-10 metros (16,4-32,8 pies) high, where falling is dangerous.[1][2]{{belay|belaying}}
, whereby the rope friction is increased by passing the rope around the hip of the belayer.{{volume hold}}
.{{carabiner}}
for use with a {{Munter hitch}}
(from German for the hitch; Halbmastwurfsicherung).{{aid climbing}}
. See also {{skyhook}}
.}}
{{V-grade}}
.[1]{{alpine climbing}}
that is a combination of an ice pick, {{adze}}
, and pointed stick.{{mixed climbing}}
.[1]{{ice axe}}
with a hammer and pick head on a short handle, and no spike. See also {{rock hammer}}
.{{piton}}
that can be used for weak {{protection}}
on ice.{{protection}}
device in {{ice climbing}}
, with the tubular ice screw as the strongest.[53]{{ice axe}}
that is used in modern advanced {{ice climbing}}
.{{competition climbing}}
. See {{uiaa|UIAA}}
.{{climbing wall}}
s that are set up inside buildings.{{protection}}
that is installed on the route (e.g. "there is a {{piton}}
and {{sling}}
"in-situ" at the {{crux}}
").[2]{{competition climbing}}
, an area where competitiors are kept to prevent them getting {{beta}}
on the upcoming routes.[54]{{finger jam}}
, {{foot jam}}
, {{hand jam}}
, and {{chest jam}}
.[2]{{bucket}}
.[1][2]{{ascender}}
, and the generic term for ascending a {{fixed rope}}
using a mechanical ascender.{{carabiner}}
.[2]{{prusik|Prusik knot}}
, useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing.{{Egyptian}}
.{{knee bar}}
; initially controversial as they raised technical standards, but came to be accepted like climbing shoes.[56][57]
{{expedition style}}
mountaineering to cross crevasses or on difficult sections as a form of {{aid climbing}}
support (this can also be done with flexible {{bachar ladder}}
s). See also {{aider}}
.{{protection}}
equipment used in {{via ferrata}}
climbing that attaches the {{harness}}
to the fixed steel cables. Lanyards often attach to {{energy absorber}}
s given the higher {{fall factor}}
of via ferrata climbing.{{side pull|side-pulling}}
with both hands and using opposing friction for the feet.[1][2][11]{{lead climber}}
clips their {{belay}}
rope into {{protection}}
equipment as they ascend.[1][2]}}
{{lead climbing}}
; the other person is the {{belayer}}
.[1][2]}}
{{lead climber}}
fall while {{lead climbing}}
; will be at least twice the distance to the last piece of {{protection}}
.{{off-width}}
cracks pioneered in the late 1970s by Randy Leavitt and Tony Yaniro that uses alternating hand-fist stacks and leg-calf locks; helpful for resting, and when placing {{protection}}
.[58]{{climbing chalk}}
but with a longer hold time.{{lead climbing}}
, the segment of the rope between the {{lead climber}}
and the {{belayer}}
.[2]{{dead hang}}
.[1]{{Egyptian}}
.{{lead climber}}
is lowered down the route by the {{belayer}}
holding their weight on the {{belay device}}
.{{mixed climbing}}
system for {{grade|grading}}
the technical difficulty of mixed climbing routes, which goes: M1, M2, M3, M4, M5, M6, and up to M14.[4] See also {{D-grade}}
.}}
{{ice climbing}}
tools on iced-up or snow-covered rock surfaces; mixed climbing techniques are used in {{dry-tooling}}
and in {{alpine climbing}}
.[51]{{pocket}}
or a {{hueco}}
, which only has enough room for one finger.[1][2]{{simul climbing}}
.{{pitch}}
; a {{big wall}}
route involves so many pitches, it takes over a day.{{belay|belaying}}
without a mechanical {{belay device}}
.
}}
{{big wall climbing}}
and {{alpine climbing}}
; goes from I, II, III ... to VII.}}
{{A-grade}}
.{{protection}}
. See {{hexcentric}}
.[2]{{cleaning tool}}
.}}
{{climbing command}}
when requesting that the {{belayer}}
remove {{belay}}
equipment from the climbing rope (e.g. when cleaning top {{protection}}
from a lead route). Replied to with "{{belay off}}
".[15]{{jamming|jams}}
but is not as large as a {{chimney}}
.[1][2] See {{big bro}}
.{{climbing command}}
when they are ready to be {{belay|belayed}}
. Replied to with "{{belay on}}
".[15]{{beta}}
; with beta, it is a {{flash}}
.[1][2][45]{{dihedral}}
.{{bolt}}
ed by someone (e.g. they bought and installed the bolts) but who was unsuccessful in {{redpoint}}
ing it, and it is now considered to be "open" to any climber to try; sometimes the original bolter will leave colored tape on the first bolt(s) to note the route is "not open".[60]{{roof}}
.[2]{{dyno}}
where the climber must move quickly through a sequence of intermediate hand holds (neither of which can hold the climber for any period), with their arms mimicking a paddling action and their feet usually in mid-air, before getting to a secure position. See also {{campusing}}
.[43] {{protection}}
that remains static during a fall; opposite of {{active protection}}
. See {{nut}}
s and {{hexcentric}}
s.{{piton}}
.{{traverse|pendulum traverse}}
.{{protection}}
being far to one side.{{quickdraw}}
but made from a steel cable with steel {{carabiner}}
s that is permanently fixed to the {{bolt}}
; longer wearing than aluminum quickdraws, and climbers do not need to retrieve them after a climb.[1]{{anchor}}
, give them flexibility to perform other tasks.}}
{{anchor}}
.}}
{{Lead climbing}}
where the {{protection}}
(e.g. {{quickdraw}}
s) are pre-installed. See also {{greenpoint}}
and {{redpoint}}
.[2][48]{{belay}}
points with a "full pitch" being the length of the rope, circa 50 metros (164 pies).[1][2]{{protection}}
that incorporates a clipping hole for a {{carabiner}}
or a ring in its body that is {{rock hammer|hammered}}
into cracks; comes in a wide range of designs and types for different crack types and widths; common in {{aid climbing}}
, {{big wall climbing}}
, and {{alpine climbing}}
.[1][2] See also {{rurp|RURP}}
.{{piton}}
when inserting or removing, so as to avoid loss.{{big wall climbing|big wall}}
climbs.[61]{{big wall climbing}}
to create a rest point on a sheer rock face.{{hold}}
or part of a hold with a surface facing upwards, or away from the direction it is pulled, facilitating use. A positive hold is the opposite of a {{sloper}}
.{{bouldering}}
to describe the sequence of moves to be overcome.[2]}}
{{Self-locking device}}
.{{route}}
or boulder {{problem}}
as a "project".}}
Equipment for arresting {{lead climber}}
falls, or to create {{anchor|anchors}}
for {{abseil}}
s or {{belay}}
s. Examples are {{passive protection|passive}}
({{bolt}}
s, {{copperhead}}
s, {{hexcentric}}
s, {{ice screw}}
s, {{nut}}
s, {{quickdraw}}
s, and {{skyhook}}
s), and {{active protection|active}}
({{cam}}
s, {{friend}}
s, {{tricam}}
s).[1][2]}}
{{fixed rope}}
, named after Austrian Karl Prusik, who developed this knot in 1931.[2]{{protection}}
that is used to attach a running rope to an {{anchor}}
or a {{bolt}}
. See {{permadraw}}
.[1][2]}}
{{carabiner}}
which is smaller than the normal carabiner.}}
{{protection}}
equipment carried by a {{lead climber}}
up a climb.[1][2]{{descender}}
known as an "abseil rack" or a "rappel rack", consisting of metal bars on a U-shaped chassis, which is frequently used in caving. An alternative heavier device is a "whaletail" (also "whale tail") which is a machined block often used by rescuers.[64] {{abseil}}
.{{grade}}
.{{anchor|anchor point(s)}}
along the length of a {{fixed rope}}
(i.e. in addition to the main {{anchor|anchor}}
at the top of the fixed rope) that is used to avoid edges that could increase rope wear.[65]}}
{{bolt|bolts}}
on an existing bolted {{sport climbing}}
route.{{free climbing|Free climbing}}
a route by {{lead climbing|leading}}
it after having failed it or practiced it beforehand (e.g. by {{hangdog|hangdogging}}
, {{headpoint}}
ing, or {{top rope climbing|top roping}}
). A route climbed on the first-ever attempt (and no practice), it is an {{onsight}}
or a {{flash}}
. See {{first free ascent}}
.[1][2]}}
{{protection}}
{{bolt}}
, similar in concept to a sliding {{nut}}
, but shaped to fit into a drilled hole; popular in {{aid climbing}}
.}}
{{bolt|bolts}}
to a route that has already been ascended using {{traditional climbing}}
{{protection}}
. The technique is controversial, with ethical debate on the issues of improving climber safety versus protecting the integrity of the original traditional climbing challenge.[66][67]{{belay station}}
, notable versions include the Petzl PAW.{{protection}}
failed and "ripped-out" of the rock. See {{zipper fall}}
.[2]{{aid climbing}}
equipment used by the {{lead climber}}
to attach to {{bolt runner}}
rivets in the rock. See also {{carrot bolt}}
.{{piton}}
s, {{bolt}}
s, and {{copperhead}}
s in {{aid climbing}}
and {{big wall climbing}}
. See also {{ice hammer}}
.}}
{{protection}}
from the ground by swinging a loop of rope so that it is caught by a pre-placed {{carabiner}}
.[68]{{overhang}}
that is so steep, it becomes horizontal.[2]{{climbing rope}}
.[1]{{drag}}
.[1]{{anchor}}
like a bungee cord.{{simul climbing}}
.{{climbing route}}
.{{protection}}
{{nut}}
on a wire for tiny cracks with marginal holding power; named after Roland Pauligk.[2]{{sling}}
is made from nylon-blend materials, used by climbers for a multitude of purposes.[1]{{protection}}
placed by the {{lead climber}}
to reduce the length of a fall.[2]{{lead climbing}}
for the distance between points of good {{protection}}
; in the grading of climbs, routes with long runouts have higher adjectival "{{E-grade|E}}
" grade (British system), or an {{r/x|R/X}}
or even {{X}}
suffix ({{yosemite decimal system|American system}}
). See {{ground fall}}
.[1][2]{{piton}}
, tied to a wire or rope and {{rock hammer|hammered}}
into cracks; created by Yvon Chouinard in 1960 for extreme {{aid climbing}}
routes in Yosemite; acronym for realized ultimate reality piton.[70]{{yosemite decimal system}}
for {{traditional climbing}}
routes that have poor possibilities for {{protection}}
where any fall could be serious (e.g. Master's Edge). See {{X}}
.{{deep-water soloing}}
system for {{grade|grading}}
the objective danger difficulty of DWS climbing routes, which goes: S0, S1, S2, and S3. See also {{x|X}}
.}}
{{col}}
.{{grade}}
than probably deserved; sometimes due to a "trick-move" at the {{crux}}
that once learned, does make the route easier; or due to overly conservative grading.[2]{{grades}}
.{{webbing}}
structure consisting of one large loop sewn in multiple places to make a shorter length.{{whipper}}
fall.[2]{{talus}}
.{{hold}}
screwed onto the wall on a {{climbing wall}}
.
}}
{{lead climber}}
; often acts as the {{belayer}}
.{{ice axe}}
to arrest a fall, or to control a {{glissade}}
.{{belaying}}
in {{solo climbing}}
. See {{self-locking device}}
.}}
A device used in {{solo climbing}}
, and particularly rope solo climbing, to automatically arrest falls. Examples include Wren's Silent Partner. See also {{progress capture device}}
. Compare {{automatic belay}}
.}}
{{free climbing|free climb}}
a {{route}}
, via an {{on-sight}}
, {{flash}}
, or {{redpoint}}
.[2][1]{{anchor|anchors}}
; stands for Strong, Equalised, Redundant, Efficient, No Extension. See also {{ERNEST}}
.{{hold}}
that can only fit one hand at a time.{{lead climber}}
, to denote the more serious activity they are undertaking compared to the {{belayer}}
.[2]{{big wall}}
climbing technique where the {{lead climber}}
fixes the rope at an anchor to allow the {{second}}
to ascend using {{jumar}}
s, while the leader climber then continues to ascend in a rope solo climbing fashion; unlike {{simul climbing}}
, neither is {{belay}}
ing the other.[71][72]{{hold}}
that needs to be gripped with a sideways pull towards the body.[1][2][11]{{lead climbing|leader}}
placing {{protection}}
that the {{second}}
removes as they advance. A {{protection capture device (PCD)}}
may also be used.[72]}}
{{anchor}}
points. See {{fixed rope}}
.{{Bouldering}}
term for a route that must be started from a seated position on the ground with hands and feet on prescribed holds; acronyms are SS (sit-start), SDS (sit-down-start), or assis (french); concept invented by John Yablonski.[73]}}
{{hook}}
inserted on a horizontal {{hold}}
for {{protection}}
in {{traditional climbing}}
, or in {{aid climbing}}
.{{slab climbing}}
techniques.[2]{{slab}}
s that usually emphasizes balance, footwork, and {{smearing}}
.{{lead climbing}}
and in {{top rope climbing}}
, it is the amount of additional rope that the {{belayer}}
has allowed; slack increases the distance of any fall before the {{protection}}
begins to hold the rope, but is needed to reduce {{rope drag}}
or {{aid climbing|aid}}
.[74]{{webbing}}
.[2]{{hold}}
where the surface slopes down toward the ground, with very little {{positive}}
surface or lip.[1][2][12]{{climbing shoe}}
in the absence of good footholds.[1][2][12]
{{ice screw}}
that is inserted by hammering with an {{ice hammer}}
.{{deadman anchor}}
.{{second}}
); if also without {{protection}}
is {{free solo climbing}}
. See rope solo climbing.{{competition climbing}}
discipline where competitors race in pairs up a standardized {{climbing wall}}
.[1]{{indoor climbing}}
, a {{hold}}
that is not secure and spins in place when weight is applied.{{lead climbing}}
where the {{protection}}
is via pre-placed fixed {{bolt}}
s; opposite of {{traditional climbing}}
.[3] Confusingly, {{competition climbing}}
(which includes bolted lead climbing, but also free solo bouldering and top-roped speed climbing) is sometimes called "sport climbing".[2][3]{{lead climber}}
or {{bouldering}}
climber ready to absorb the energy of a {{ground fall}}
.[2]{{protection}}
device used in {{crack climbing}}
. See {{cam}}
.[2]}}
{{climbing rope}}
used for {{abseiling}}
or {{jumar|jumaring}}
(as a {{fixed rope}}
), but not {{lead climbing}}
. Compare {{dynamic rope}}
.[2][29]{{mixed climbing}}
and {{dry-tooling}}
where the ice axe is inverted and the blade wedged into a crack above the climber's head, who then pulls down on the handle of the axe to gain upward momentum. See also {{undercling pull}}
.[75]{{chimneying}}
.[1][2][12][11]{{ice axe}}
.{{belay device}}
consisting of a flat plate with a pair of slots, named after the inventor Fritz Sticht.[2] See also {{gigi|GiGi}}
.{{quickdraw}}
that can be clipped into the first {{bolt}}
of a route from the ground.[1]{{nut}}
made by Black Diamond.{{gear}}
.[1][2]{{webbing}}
or {{cord}}
left on a climb (e.g. "I found some old tat") often as part of an irretrievable {{anchor}}
point that was part of an {{abseiling|abseil station}}
.[77]{{slack}}
out of a rope; also a {{climbing command}}
by a {{lead climber}}
to the {{belayer}}
.[1]}}
{{scree}}
.{{crack climbing}}
.{{grade}}
.{{grade}}
(e.g. Action Directe for {{grade}}
9a).{{harness}}
to the climbing rope, usually via a {{figure-eight knot}}
. See {{clip in}}
.}}
{{runner}}
created by "threading" a {{sling}}
around a jammed block or through a hole in the rock.[2]{{hold}}
to pull the climber inwards; used on {{overhang}}
s.[1][12]{{belay}}
from a fixed {{anchor}}
point above the climb; if the climber falls, they just hang. See {{hangdog}}
ging.[2][1][3]{{route}}
by ascending over the top of the climb to safety.[2]{{mixed climbing}}
and {{dry-tooling}}
where the ice axe is wedged into a crack and twisted to generate torque to aid upward momentum. See also {{undercling pull}}
and {{stein pull}}
.[75]{{feet follow}}
.{{lead climbing}}
where {{protection}}
is placed as the {{lead climber}}
ascends; opposite of {{sport climbing}}
.[2][3]{{big wall climbing}}
technique where the {{lead climber}}
carries an additional static rope (in addition to their dynamic climbing rope) that hangs (or "trails") behind them as they ascend; the trail rope enables the belayer to pass equipment to the leader during the ascent, and for the leader to haul up equipment as the belayer ascends.[22][61]}}
{{route}}
that requires progress in a horizontal direction.[1][2]{{fixed rope}}
anchored at both ends.{{camming}}
{{protection}}
device that has no moving parts (e.g. it is {{passive protection}}
).{{belay device}}
.{{bouldering}}
hold to replicate such a formation on an {{climbing wall}}
.{{lead climbing}}
, using two ropes that are even thinner than {{double ropes}}
, both of which need to be {{clip in|clipped in}}
at each point of {{protection}}
; sometimes used in long {{alpine climbing}}
routes with major {{abseiling}}
descents.[29]{{competition ice climbing}}
.[1] See also {{ifsc|IFSC}}
.{{UIAA}}
grade system for rock climbing, which goes: ... VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, .... , to XII; is less common than the {{French grade}}
system or the American {{yosemite decimal system|YDS grade}}
system, but still used in Germany and parts of Eastern Europe.[6]}}
{{Alpine-grade}}
.[6]{{hold}}
which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards.[1][2][11]}}
{{stein pull}}
is completed, the undercling pull is a {{mixed climbing}}
technique for continuing to use the hold to gain upward momentum by using the hold to pull into the rock; requires a lot more energy than a stein pull.[75]{{undercling}}
.{{grade|grading system}}
for {{bouldering}}
{{problem|problems}}
invented by John Sherman, which goes: V0, V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, V6, V7, ... , to V17. The V-scale and the French {{font}}
scale are the most common boulder grading systems in use worldwide.[1][6]}}
{{abseiling}}
point used especially in winter and in {{ice climbing}}
.}}
{{crampons}}
to have penetration. See also {{clear ice}}
and {{glaze ice}}
.An alpine {{route}}
where {{protection}}
is from permanent steel {{fixed ropes}}
or chains, with progression aided by artificial steel steps or ladders; commonly found in the Dolomites. See also {{lanyard}}
and {{energy absorber}}
.}}
{{hold}}
, for indoor {{climbing wall}}
s; it may itself contain individual holds{{ice climbing}}
system for {{grade|grading}}
the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes, which goes: WI1, WI2, WI3, WI4, WI5, WI6, and up to WI13.[4] See also {{M-grade}}
.}}
{{sling|slings}}
.{{webbing}}
with eyes sewn into the ends which can be used in place of a {{cordelette}}
.{{whipper}}
(long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on the {{belay}}
rope. See also {{hangdog|hangdogging}}
.{{lead climber}}
as they were well beyond the last piece of {{protection}}
. See {{screamer}}
.[78]{{clean|Cleaning}}
a rock climbing route with a wire brush before an attempt; has ethical issues due to rock damage and possible {{chipping}}
.[2]{{dialled}}
.[2]{{nut|nuts}}
.[2]{{Yosemite decimal system}}
for highlighting {{traditional climbing}}
routes that have poor or even no possibilities for {{protection}}
, where any fall could be fatal (e.g. Indian Face and Gaia). See {{r/x|R/X}}
and {{chop route}}
.{{figure-four}}
move which came from American climber Tony Yaniro's use of it on Chouca 8a+.[79]{{free climbing}}
term pre-{{redpoint}}
ing, where a falling {{lead climber}}
returns to the ground to restart, but leaves their rope clipped into the {{protection}}
— in redpointing, the rope is pulled free from all protection before re-starting the climb.[2]
{{grade|grading}}
walks, hikes, and climbs; the rock climbing (5.x) goes: 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, .... , 5.14a, 5.14b, 5.14c, 5.14d, 5.15a, etc., and with the {{French grade}}
system, is the most widely used grading system worldwide for {{sport climbing}}
.[6]{{lead climbing}}
, {{clipping in|clipping into}}
{{protection}}
with a segment of rope from beneath the previous piece of protection, resulting in {{rope drag}}
.[1][10]{{pulley}}
s; is typically used to extricate a climber after falling into a {{crevasse}}
.{{traditional climbing}}
{{ground fall}}
where all the {{protection}}
gear fails in sequence (i.e. opens like a "zip").[2][80]}}
|url-status=
ignorado (ayuda)
|url-status=
ignorado (ayuda)
|url-status=
ignorado (ayuda).
|url-status=
ignorado (ayuda)
|url-status=
ignorado (ayuda)
|url-status=
ignorado (ayuda)
|url-status=
ignorado (ayuda)
[[Category:Climbing|*]] [[Category:Glossaries of sports|Climbing terms]] [[Category:Climbing techniques| ]] [[Category:Wikipedia glossaries using description lists]] [[Category:Climbing and mountaineering-related lists]]